Kampala
The ancestral capital of the Buganda kingdom is modern day Uganda’s capital too.
And for an African first city, Kampala has got real charm and panache.
You can still see some of the thatched relics of the former glory years at the Kasubi Tombs, or you can taste the frenetic energy of day-to-day Ugandan life between the sun-cracked streets of Central Kampala; a place of throbbing markets (the city’s Owino market is said to be the largest in Central-east Africa) and echoing mosque minarets (that soaring Gaddafi National Mosque is a must!). On the edge of town is the more straight-laced area of Nakasero Hill, where well-to-do villas house the country’s elite and expats chatter in the ramshackle bars.
Entebbe
Entebbe, for most international visitors at least, will be the entrance point to Uganda. It’s here that the nation’s Entebbe International Airport makes its home; its runways butting up against the waters of Lake Victoria. Most will also leave promptly, on their way to Kampala or the country’s other far-flung safari destinations. Those who linger can enjoy a laid-back place that still trundles to the tune of the old British Protectorate – for it’s here that the English colonists made their base in earlier decades. One of the relics of that age is the beautiful National Botanical Gardens, while there are also charming churches, and the official residence of the president: the Ugandan State House.
Mbale
One of the main transportation and administration hubs of eastern Uganda, tin-shack Mbale hosts its own regional government and a clutch of good hotels and guesthouses. It’s particularly useful for those on their way to the heights of Mount Elgon and the famous summit of Wagagai – a 24-million-year-old volcano that is the seventeenth highest in all of Africa. (For the best base of explorations around the hiking trails and glorious mountain’s that erupt around Mbale, be sure to hitch a local minibus out to Bududa.) Back in the town itself and you can enjoy the hustle and bustle of day-to-day Ugandan life, along with plenty of shops and market stalls.
Jinja
It’s just a short drive along the highways east to the river town of Jinja, which juts out into the waters where the Victoria Nile emerges from its eponymous lake. Sleepy, sun-cracked and relaxed, the place is the perfect antidote to the energy of life in the capital. It’s got a clutch of great bars, but is most famed for the wealth of riparian resorts that line the banks.
You’re sure to be able to find something to suit, with everything from pool-peppered boutique hotels to more rustic ecolodges surrounded by monkeys to choose from. And when you do want to get the blood flowing, be sure to head for the whitewater rapids on the river for some rafting!
Fort Portal
Still chuffing after the appearance of tarmacked roads in 2007, the regional town of Fort Portal has a truly enviable position beneath the serrated tips of the mighty Rwenzori National Park. Chimps and gorillas tread the backcountry close by, giving the place a real feral feel. However, the center is anything but wild, with human energy dominating the action.
There, it’s all about bustling markets and haggling for local farmer’s produce. Fort Portal is also a fine base point for launching excursions to the aforementioned Kibale Forest, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Semuliki, Rwenzori and Lake Edward.
Lira
Lira is a little crossroads city in the midst of north-central Uganda. While it’s actually the fourth-largest in the country, it still manages to retain that charming provincial vibe and sleepiness. Travelers rarely come here too, adding a dash of off-the-beaten-track character and local authenticity. Those who do make their way to Lira’s streets get to see a real Ugandan city in action, and even get to hear sobering and visceral stories of the ravaging civil wars of former years – this place was hit particularly badly by the onslaught of Joseph Kony and his private army.
